The Philippines Jeepney
The Philippines is renowned for its
multi-colored, highly decorated jeepney. But after about 10 minutes in the
country, you realize that these are the exception. Officially referred to as
PUJs, the majority are drab utilitarian vehicles with route details as their
major decoration and more often than not belching black smoke.
That being said, they are the back bone of the
public transport system as they career down major thoroughfares and side streets
playing tag with each other. The first jeep gets the passengers.
Holding on average up to 20 passengers,
2 up front next to the driver and 18 in the back seated on benches running down
the sides. It is not uncommon to see an extra body on the outside hanging onto
the back waiting for someone to alight so they can move inside, although these
passengers do tend to be young and male.
Jeeps stop and start at their passenger’s
whim, apart from their start points, where they will sit until they have a full
load. There are no designated stops, to get off you shout “para” or knock on
the roof or both. To hail a jeep, you need to attract the driver’s attention.
This is easier than one might expect
considering the traffic, which in Manila, like all big cities, is chaotic.
Jeepney drivers drive with one eye on the traffic and the other searching for
customers. Make eye contact and nod or stretch out your arm, palm down and close
your fingers and your ride will stop. With luck it will have pulled over to the
side of the road, if not thread your way through the traffic and climb aboard.
Watch your head! You will be shuffling
along inside the jeep bent at right angles to a vacant bit of bench and it’s a
good idea to hang onto the hand rail on the roof. If there is a gap in the
traffic before you’ve found your bit of bench, the driver will be heading for
it. Also be aware of your fellow passenger’s toes, if you inadvertently do
step on someone’s toes a smile and saying “ay sorry” should avert any
serious recriminations.
The standard bayad (fare) for a jeepney is 7.5
pesos (AU$0.20) although if you are going for a long ride, more than 4.5 kms,
expect to pay an extra 50 centavos (AU$0.01) per kilometer. Pass your money down
the jeep saying “bayad” along with a recognizable land mark near your
destination. Your fellow passengers will pass the money to the driver whose hand
will appear above his shoulder to accept it. Like wise your change will be
passed back the same way.
Now, not only is your driver negotiating Manila
traffic, scanning for customers, he is also making change. The majority of
jeepney drivers are very competent if somewhat erratic. I have often marveled at
their ability to take their vehicles into spaces I was pretty sure they
wouldn’t fit and to do so at speed.
If your Tagalog isn’t up to counting, hand
signals will suffice for the number of fares you want. Index finger for one; V
symbol for two; middle, ring and little fingers for three; four fingers for four
and add a thumb for five.
A sense of geography is handy but not a
pre-requisite as jeepneys traverse a pretty much pre-determined route and as
long as you know where you have come from you can catch one going back the way
you came. There are literally dozens of them passing any given point most hours
of the day. Ok, between 1 am and 5 am they do become a bit thin on the ground.
That is when taxis come into their own, assuming of course that the driver wants
to go where you do.
Jeepneys are a great way to explore the
Philippines and get a sense of the place from the local’s perspective.
They are the preferred means of local transport for the majority of the
population and there is always room for one more, if not in this one, then in
the one behind it.